Dancing Hungarians

Today was a busy day of seeing the sights of Budapest. I'll skip all that though and head straight for the best part of my day. I went to the city park and had a beer while watching a bunch of locals dance the night away. I ended up sitting next to a woman who grew up in Hungary and she started talking to me. Her mother soon met her and then an 80 year old woman with burgundy and white striped hair joined us. She was wearing a bright multi colored tee-shirt. This woman had a fun personality. I don't think she liked me too much at first because she wanted us only to speak Hungarian. However, she warmed up over time and eventually we went out on the dance floor together and had a great time dancing to a couple songs alongside a 60 year old man who's version of dancing resembled a chicken attempting flight. So there I was in Budapest dancing with an 80 year old lady who couldn't speak English (and in case you are wondering, I can't speak Hungarian), it was a classic moment. By the end of the night she wanted to take a picture with me and have me send it to her.

My original English speaking friend was there for all of this and she and her mother offered to show me Budapest at night. We drove past some of the sights and over the river. The mother kept pointing to one side of the river saying Pest and then pointing to the other side saying Buda. She kept clarifying that one was Pest, the other Buda until she confused herself and pointed at Buda and said Pest then pointed at Pest and said Buda. :)

I knew this before starting this journey, but it really is the people who make a place special.

A first

Leaving Bled was tough. Not just because I had to wake up at five am to do it, but because it is a truly beautiful, restful place. Yesterday I had some strength back and I walked around the lake and to a gorge that is just magnificent. I decided that if I ever have a job that allows me a sabbatical, Bled is on the short list of places I'd like to spend it.

There was a lot I didn't get to do in Bled but I have more of Europe I want to see in the second half of this marathon journey. So today I took a nine hour train from Ljubljana, Slovenia to Budapest, Hungary. That was after a one hour bus ride from Bled to Ljubljana. I slept most of the way except for when this oversized Ukrainian woman started playing music from her phone AND she sung along. That goes on the list of things I just don't experience back home.

I arrived in Budapest around four in the afternoon and with surprising speed got a map, a Budapest card (covers museum entries and metro fares), and got the largest denomination of money out of the bank ever. Going from one currency to the next and back again is taxing on my brain! I don't yet have the Forint sorted out. When you see that your drink costs 800 anything, it gives you pause.

The exciting thing about being in Hungary is that it is the first country of my ancestry I have ever visited. While I don't feel any great affinity for Hungary, I am excited to learn more about this country in a way I haven't been about the others.

God bless the Swedes and antibiotics

I went to the doctor in Bled, Slovenia this morning and insisted on getting some antibiotics for whatever bug I caught in Italy. He asked me if antibiotics are prescribed much in the US. I had to laugh and said, "yes, all the time". I know there is controversy over prescribing antibiotics too often, but I am grateful to have some so I can get back on my feet and enjoy this trip again.

There is a Swede staying at this hostel here and he has taken on the roll of house mom, arranging travel for a couple needing to get to Austria and walking a sick American girl to the pharmacy/hospital. Stewart jokes that he is paid by the US government to look out for Americans in Slovenia, but I think he's a God-send.

An interesting observation about my trip to the hospital today. No sign in sheet, no forms, no insurance issues and I got in and out of there in less than 45 minutes. I've spent hours waiting for a doctor at hospitals in the US while holding a sprained wrist or suffering from mono. I was pleasantly surprised by the whole process.

Sick still

Nothing interesting to report. I'm still sick and have decided to seek medical help in the morning. It seems as though I caught a bug in Florence or Venice.
More to come once I feel better or get bored...

Discouraged BUT not in Italy!

I am so relieved to be out of Italy. I am in Ljubljana, Slovania. It is beautiful country here. Tomorrow I head up to the Alps for some relaxing and fresh air.

I still feel pretty discouraged after two wretched days in Italy. My clothes won't get washed until tomorrow and just the idea of what they smell like makes me gag a little. I also didn't eat anything but bread and water for the last 48 hours until this evening when I forced myself to eat some meat. I think the smell just got stuck in my nose and has ruined my taste too.

Plus I keep finding bug bites every ten minutes or so. Must stop at the pharmacy to get some repellent.

The good news is that I am no longer in Italy with its macho men and fashionista women. (The men were pretty good fashionistas too though.) Every person I've stopped to ask for help here speak excellent English. I am very grateful for that.

I find myself discouraged on day 24 and keep coming up with escape plans to leave Europe. Praying for strength and health.

Day 22

One of my good friends has linked her blog to mine and given my blog the title, Julia vs. Europe. Yesterday, Europe got the best of me. I arrived in Venice and felt gross from the beginning. The place stinks. It smells so bad I haven't been able to eat much and I just want to hide from all the tourists.

At first I thought I was the one stinking. I washed all my clothes only to discover they now all stink of Venice water. I was going to stay three nights here, but I've decided to get out and go to Slovenia a day earlier than I had planned.

When I tried to get back to my hostel early evening yesterday I got misinformation on the water busses and tried to walk, but got very turned around and lost. I was in tears trying to find my hostel in this wretched stench.

For anyone who has been jealous of my travels in Europe, rest well tonight knowing that your sheets don't stink of Venice.

Julia 21, Europe 1

Florence - The David

There are many times when people feel let down by seeing something they have always heard about and really want to see. For instance, on the way to Florence I stopped in Pisa but was told not to bother because the leaning tower isn't that great. With very low expectations I went anyway and loved it!

Today I went to the Academia and saw Michalangelo's David. I really is as impressive in person as its reputation demands it to be. What an impressive sculpture! I don't even know that much about sculpture and I found myself spending a long time in awe of such an excellent work. It just seems so real.

I also enjoyed Fro Angelico's Frescos in St. Mark's today. The cloisters each have a fresco and some of them really evoke a call to prayer. Some felt like there was much to meditate on and others seemed as though the simplicity of the work was a call to simple meditation.

My feet are aching from walking all over Europe. I'm just under half way through this trip and I wonder how I'll do as the weeks stretch on. Traveling is great, but tiring work.

Thanks for reading! It is fun for me to share with family and friends the experiences I'm having in Europe. I love when you leave comments too... :)

Florence - a long day

I've spent the past 12 hours roaming Florence and its many museums, churches, and squares. I spent over €40 on admission tickets today. I'll leave it up to you to figure out the conversion. I'd rather not think about that right now.

Some stuff I really liked:
The hike and view of Florence from Brunelleschi's Dome on top of Santa Maria del Fiore.

Mercury by Giambologna in The Bargello.

The tombs of famous Florentines at Santa Croce. Michelangelo, Dante, Galileo, Machiavelli. And Cimabue's Crucifixion. I was told to see this and it turned out to be really impressive.

The Uffizi. Too much to name.

Museo dell'Opera del Duomo - The panels from the Baptistry East doors by Lorenzo Ghiberti.

At the end of a long day I stopped at a small chapel and listened to the organist play. It was refreshing. Then I went for a wonderful Italian dinner. I think if I had to choose one type of food to live on for the rest of my life, it would be Italian.




Stuff I didn't like:
All the graffiti on the stairs and outter dome at Santa Maria del Fiore. I didn't come to Florence, pay €6, and hike 463 stairs, to find out that Mike loves Jenny and that Robert was there in 2005. Funny story: Almost as soon as I arrived at the top of the dome, I saw some punk about to add his mark to the Duomo. Without much thought I sternly said "hey, hey, this is a church" while shaking my head. He stopped, but probably proceeded once I was gone. It takes a certain disrespect to write on such a building.

David by Donatello in The Bargello was being cleaned today. It was being done in the room he normally stands in. However, all I got to see was his back side. I'll just have to come back to Florence I guess.

I rushed Santa Croce in an effort to make my appointment at the Uffizi.

Too much to see at the Uffizi.

San Lorenzo was cool, but one ticket didn't cover the whole building. It was several different ticket and many Euros to see the whole place. I think this is because the state owns some of the building and the church the other. I often found myself frustrated with the touristification of churches. One woman actually said to me when I asked about getting to another part of the church, "That is the religious part." I thought, "what part of the church is supposed to be the non-religious part?"

Another long day tomorrow, but I hope to be more laid back and just see what I can rather than force myself into a laborious tour of Florence. I know now that I can't see it all on this trip, so I'd rather enjoy what can be seen.

Flirting in Florence

I am now in Florence after a two day stint in the beautiful, but unfortunately rainy, Cinque Terre. A must see for anyone travelling in Italy, but hope for better weather than I had. The sun was nice and bright this morning as I was packing my bag to go.

I spent the time in Cinque Terre with another woman traveling alone and we had a great time telling stories, eating great food and getting to know some of the tourists and locals. Cheryl, you're a legend!

Cheryl and I were hit on by a seventy something Italian man while we ate dinner at his restaurant. He was incredibly cute. Chezere (no idea if that is correct spelling) wanted to know if we were single so that we could meet his nephew. Hilarious. Cheryl said she was taken and when I said I was single, Chezere shook my hand and grinned.

We also met Oliver the artist who grew up in Croatia but now lives in Berlin, except for the four months out of the year when he comes and paints Cinque Terre and makes enough money on the trails selling his work to live on all year. What a life!

Once I made it to Florence, I became overwhelemed with all there is to see here after lazy days in Cinque Terre. And by lazy I mean hiking in the humidity and rain. So I sat to plan tomorrow in Piazza Santa Croce. An Italian man about forty years old sat down and started speaking in Italian. I asked him in Italian if he spoke English and then he suggested French. (We all know what trouble that could cause.) He proceeded to tell me I was beautiful and pretty. Then he asked if I was on a tour of Florence.

The answer being, no, I'm traveling alone, didn't seem right. So I told him I was meeting my husband for dinner and we were travelling together. He somehow had to be somewhere really fast at that moment. He seemed to have all the time in the world before, I wonder what changed his mind.

I had an amazing dinner with two new friends from the Bay Area. Steve and his daughter Mary who is studying theology and philosophy for her undergrad. Somehow we found a lot to talk about! :)

Time for bed and a crazed day of sight seeing tomorrow.

Train Troubles

Greetings from Cinque Terre, Italy.

Getting here was not an easy task today. I came from Switzerland, over the Alps by bus and then to Milan by train. Three more trains brought me to my final destination where I nearly couldn't find a room. It was the first train from Bellinzona, Switzerland to Milan, Italy that caused the most trouble.

I took care to make the required reservation and scouted the train for my assigned seat. When I arrived at car 314, seat 101, there was an old man sitting in 102 and his stuff was in my seat. I gestured towards the seat indicating that it was my seat thinking he would kindly move his stuff. Instead I got a slew of French thrown at me by him and then his wife, who was sitting across from him. I held up my hands as if to say, "I have no idea what you nutters are talking about."

What in the world? Did I have the wrong seat? Did I make another Euro mistake?

I quickly left the car and poked my head outside and asked the ticket man if he spoke English. He did and I told him the problem. He got on the train and took my reservation card and began discussing the situation with the couple. I just stood there not knowing what was happening and the whole train car was watching whatever it was that was unfolding.

It soon became clear to me that I had the right seat because Mr. and Mrs. Grumpy Pants were getting more and more angry at the train guy. I leaned over and asked a woman if she knew what they were saying. She told me that there was no reservation posted on the seat so they were not going to give it to me. (Usually reserved seats have a sign that they are reserved and for the segment of the trip that they will remain reserved.)

The whole mess ended with me sitting next to the woman who explained the situation and the couple continually muttering throughout the two hour journey their thoughts on "reservatione". It was rediculous. At one point a man a couple rows back began to scold the old couple. I only knew this because he was speaking with much force towards them and the two finally shut up and let me get my stuff organized on the rack above them. Once the man interfered for me I started to tear up just before taking my seat. The whole thing was overwhelming and extremely petty.

An hour later the couple were complaining about the situation and the woman who helped me get a seat told me that they had said there reserved seat numbers and they were actually in the WRONG SEATS. They had taken her seat to begin with. What a pair! It's a good thing I couldn't mouth off back to them because I'm pretty sure I could have come up with some zingers after all that.

More misadventures for Julia in Europe

I arrived in Bern, Switzerland yesterday and met up with the brother of a girl I know from Vancouver. His name is Joel and his roommates are Simon and Timon. (They are all good fun.) The plan for today was to go river rafting in the Alps with their volleyball club. This meant that last night we had to travel to Igis where they all are from.

These three boys like to cut things close. I`ve run to catch the bus or train more times in the last 24 hours than ever in my entire life.

Before we left for Igis, Joel showed me around Bern. It started to rain a little, but we were alright with walking home. Then it rained harder. Then it became a full out thunderstorm. I had to tuck my camera and purse under my jacket. By the time we got back Simon and Timon had made dinner. However, we had to catch the tram to the train station so we quickly got all our stuff together and headed out.

This was no easy tram to catch. Joel and I ran while Timon and Simon rode their bikes. We literally ran alongside the tram for three or four blocks. Once it stopped, I jumped on only to have the doors shut behind me leaving Simon and Timon outside and me never paying for my ticket. We tried to open the doors, but to no avail.

I sat down while Joel had a lengthy conversation in Swiss-German with the ticket taker man. (No one seems to know what his actual title is.) Meanwhile the tram started moving and Simon and Timon had to follow us full speed on their bikes and in the pouring rain. I had no idea what Joel and the ticket man were discussing until we got to the next stop. The doors opened and Timon grabbed a ticket out of his mouth that he had been holding the whole ride and handed it to Joel who handed it to the ticket man. The ticket man looked at it, made a tear in it, handed the ticket to me and walked away.

We all eventually met up at the train station where we again ran to make the train to Zurich and on to Bern.

Now what was all the fuss about? It turns out that in the excitement of running for the tram I had jumped on thinking that we just needed to make it stop and then I could buy a ticket. The ticket man had another idea. He wanted to charge Joel and me 86 Swiss Francs (about 80 US) for not having tickets. Joel was able to show that he had a pass allowing him to ride for free. He had to explain that I was from America and had made a mistake, BUT the ticket was on its way. Which is where Timon and Simon saved the day and delivered the ticket saving me 80 bucks!

It`s exhausting making sure you get everything right in another country. It`s much worse when you are out of breath and your shoes are soaked through with water.

Speaking of soaked, I did go rafting today in the Alps and it was excellent. Cold, but excellent.

Tomorrow I go over the Alps into Italy to spend three days on the west coast taking in some sunshine (I hope).

Switzerland

I arrived in Basel, Switzerland around 17:00. (I`ve gotten really good at thinking in 24 hour time.) After checking in to a hostel, I discovered the wonderful tram system of Basel. It kicks butt over any public transportation system I have seen...ever. The hostels here even give their guests a free pass for the days you are in town. How cool is that? (I`d like to insert an excalmation point here, but can`t find it on the Swiss keyboard.)

The public tram might be where my admiration of this town stops, at least for tonight.

Leering hostelers require this tale to be brief:
I did not eat most of the day and for those who have spent a whole day with me would know that I don`t do well once I am hungry. My hands start to shake and pavement begins to look like a nice snack. After checking in and sorting myself out with the layout of Basel via my map, I headed into the center of town to find some dinner. (And no, I didn`t set it on the ground and `step into` the map like joey on Friends.)

I soon discovered that Switzerland is expensive. I was warned of this, but no one said that expensive meant an Americano at Starbucks that costs me less than 2 dollars US costs 5 Swiss Francs. The dollar and the Swiss Franc are about on par too. I think I paid more money for my taco salad dinner tonight than I have spent on food in any one whole day on this trip.

I must figure out how to survive on pavement for the next couple of days.

The good news is that I am meeting up with a friend of a friend and get to go rafting in Switzerland. Wahoo (exclamation point)

Oh, just found it!

Some thoughts on Europe and tourism thus far...

I don't expect Europe to be like the US, but there are certain questions and observations I have about tourism and European life...

1. Why do certain people insist on taking pictures of EVERYTHING? Yesterday, a couple (nationality not disclosed) had the wife standing and smiling in front of a memorial to Jews who were slaughtered in the 13th century. Did they know what it was and thought a smile was appropriate? Or did they not know and decide it just made for a good pic?

2. What is with paying for the toilet? I knew that was the case in Europe, but the bathrooms are no cleaner or better looked after than those in the US. And the taxes here are higher so if it is a public restroom, shouldn't the local government pay for it? Can anyone educate me on this one?

3. I find it interesting that some towns have all the signage in the local language, UNLESS something is forbidden. They make sure to put it in English too. No one wants the English speaking tourists walking on the lawn or not paying for the toilet. :)

4. And did someone curse that skirt I bought in Brussels? I wore it the other day and let's just say it turned out to be windy.

5. I've seen some great picture signs here. Like the one with a man in a top hat walking across the street indicating a crosswalk. Or the one with a woman holding the hand of a child to indicate there are pedestrains present. Too bad most tourists don't know how to read pictures and cross the street where they shouldn't or turn the wrong way down a one way street.

6. Germans like their smokes and there must not be a legal age to buy cigarettes because every other corner has a cigarette vending machine. Tobacco companies must love it here.

I apologize if this post comes off arrogant or picky, that is not my intent. (I'm extra sensitive while travelling in an effort to not come off as an egocentric American.) These are just some things I find humorous and/or CRAZY about Europe and tourists. I've made plenty of my own mishaps (see post on Brussels - skirt incident). :)

Rhine time

Not much new here on the Rhine. Same ol' laying around in the sun by the river or watching the castles go by while taking it all in from a boat.Tomorrow I leave the Romantic Rhine and head for the Romantic Road. I'll be staying in Rothenburg, which is supposed to be a gag-me-it's-so-cute medeival looking town.

I'm hopeful that there will be more people to talk to there. St. Goar has lacked much interaction with the locals. I can see why though. The town has a population of 1,000 and it doubles or triples when the tourists show up during the day. It is pretty insane to go to bed in a sleepy town on the Rhine and then wake up to tourist central. I get the sense that the locals like the business, but aren't looking to make new friends with their customers. Perhaps Rothenburg will provide some new friends.

Until next time, Auf Wiedersehen!

On to Germany

Yesterday I left Belgium and spent my first Eurail pass day heading for St. Goar, Germany.

First, I had to stop and see the Dom Cathedral in Cologne. Shortly after boarding the train to Cologne (the first leg at least), I was greeted by a large, droopy eyed Belgian man who had to stamp my ticket. He noticed that I am from California and began speaking to me in English and wanted to talk all about America. I put my postcards aside and learned all about his farm equipment import and export business. He travels to the US to do business once a year. And oh my did he have an opinion for everthing and everyone American.

After chatting for awhile, he sat down opposite me and kept talking. As the trip progressed he made himself more and more comfortable. Eventually he had his legs stretched out across the two seats across from me. Every couple of kilometers he would share that he thought something about America was CRAZY. Our borders are CRAZY. Our politics are CRAZY. Our cost of living is CRAZY. The definition of CRAZY seemed to go back and forth between good and bad. Guess who I think is CRAZY!

We talked for the whole trip! At least one hour maybe more. I love meeting people while travelling, even if they think America is CRAZY. In his defense he did call Europe CRAZY a couple times. Both the good and bad version. Everyone further on in the train must have been wondering why no one was coming through to stamp tickets.

Once I got to Cologne I stepped out of the train station to discover the most massive cathedral. It towers over the whole city. What a great place!

Now I am in St. Goar on the Rhine. I spent today riding a bike 14 kilometers down along the river and 14 kilometers back up. I´m sunburned and tired. A medieval castle awaits me tomorrow.

Before my time runs out on this pay per minute computer, one last story.
When I went to rent my bike today, I met a great German gentleman who spoke excellent English (a joy for me). I got on the bike to see if the seat was at the right level. It was perfect, BUT when I went to swing my leg around the back to get off the bike, I promptly hit the basket in the back and knocked the bike and myself over. A confessed love in Brussels, a bike 'crash' in St. Goar...I don't want to know what the next town has in store for me. We'll find out!

Brussels recap

Brussels turned out to be alright after my American born, Parisian raissed, Brussels local, waiter introduced me to a proper Trapist beer. (I thought of all my friends studying theology and becoming brew masters as I drank the monk specialty.) Thanks Anton for saving Brussels with a beer!

Meeting a new friend in a strange land reminded me that this trip will have its lonely moments, but there are people to meet along the way.

The Blog is back

Sorry to those who tried to access my blog over the last couple days. Blogger thought I might be a spammer. We are back now.

I'm in Europe

I left for my seven week tour of Europe on May 2 and arrived on May 3 in Dublin. I'm starting this new blog because I've decided I need more contact with people. Ireland provided many new friends, I'm not so sure the continent will be the same.

All that to say,welcome to my new blog! My art blog still exists, this is seperate for my trip.

I arrived in Brussels yesterday and found that it is a pretty blah town. I can see why it isn't at the top of most must see lists. The sidewalks are busted up, there is graffiti everywhere and few people are eager to help a wandering tourist. I was going to go to Bruges today to see what else Belgium has to offer, but ended up staying Brussels as I began to find better parts of the city.

I'm still not impressed with Brussels. (I'm not a big enough beer drinker for this town.) The whole place seems pretty unimpressed with itself as well. No one seems all that proud to be from here. Maybe that is why the cities symbol is a boy peeing into a large bowl. That could also explain why there is a church that has a urinal on the outside wall. Yuck!

One final story before I surrender the computer to the eager hostelers waiting for me to leave.

Today I stopped in a shop and tried on a skirt. I had already spoken a little to the shop owner who spoke a little English and I speak even less French. He asked if I liked the skirt and if it fit while I was trying it on. I said "I like it" in French. Well, actually, I didn't. I meant to say, "I like it" but instead I said "Je t'aime." Which means I like you. Sometime while he was muttering "no, no, no" I realized my mistake. Why oh why didn't I pay better attention in French class. That was the first moment on this trip I really wished someone was with me. Laughing at yourself is so much better with someone else laughing with you.

To Germany tomorrow.