Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Home

6 gigs of pictures
10 countries
18 cities
1 trip to the doctor
15 days of Eurail travel
4 flights
too many hostels
31 blog entries
and a whole host of other wonders are complete.
I am home downloading pictures, fighting jet lag and feeling a sense of great accomplishment having completed such a wonderful adventure.


As this is a "Julia in Europe 08" blog it doesn't look like there will be more entries. Unless by some random chance I head back in the next six months. I'll leave the blog up for awhile, but for those who became friends on the trip and need an email address go to the link for my art blog and find another link to my email there.

Thanks so much for reading.

Monday, June 16, 2008

Elizabeth and George

I arrived in London on Saturday morning and met up with my friend. We have had a fun weekend of catching up on the last six months since we both left Vancouver.

Yesterday we did some shopping and what looked good in £ does not look as good in $. Once thoroughly sick of shopping, we headed for Covent Garden and then on to Trafalgar Square. A great moment in the life of our family occured at Trafalgar Square many years ago. An event which has been retold many times and at least for my parents, sister and I causes great laughter.

We had just rented a car and Mom was going to drive us out to the countryside. We had to get out of London first and the difficulty of driving on the wrong side of the road got us into a bit of a pickle. Mom moved just too far to the left as we were passing a low curb and BOTH tires on the left side of the car came loose. (I don't think they actually popped. It was more like they got pushed off.) We pulled over near the Canadian embassy at Trafalgar sqaure and waited for three hours for someone to come and provide an extra tire. They only give you one spare, not TWO. Mom refused to let us take pictures. Mom wasn't with me last night so I took a few pictures of the spot we stood and waited. For good measure I randomly took a picture of a low curb as well.

Jude and I then made our way down to Buckingham Palace to see if the Queen was up for some tea. She was in, but not in the mood for commoners. We had noticed a lot of police activity while we were making our way to the palace from the square. As we walked back towards an underground stop an entire entourage of black SUVs, limos, motorcycles, and police cars zoomed by. The limos had a British flag and American flag on each. There I was on the other side of the Atlantic from the US and President Bush was driving by. He wasn't in the mood to have tea either.

Friday, June 13, 2008

The end is nigh

Tonight is my last night in Europe. I fly to London tomorrow to see my former Regent roommate, Jude. I don't plan to do much sight seeing since I have been to London before and just want to hang out with my friend and enjoy the last few days of my trip. And even though they drive on the wrong side of the road, the blessed Brits speak English.

I'll keep this entry short since my last one may have scared away any readers.

Thursday, June 12, 2008

Berlin - today

Today was an exceptional day of travel.

I marvelled yesterday at how much this city has been through. Today I saw where events that shaped the last century took place.

I'm not a big fan of tours. They usually make me feel like the tour guide must think I'm an idiot because he or she sure talks to me like I am. Today was much different and it was a welcome relief that my FREE tour was much better than any I would have paid for. (Tips are a great motivation for making a living.)

I'll go over the biggies.

Checkpoint Charlie - There is currently a replica of the actual checkpoint in place where two men dressed in fake military guard allow people to take pictures for 1€. (Our guide informed us that this is their day job and at night, the two men are strippers. No surprise in Germany where prostitution is %100 legal.) The street I easily crossed was once the dead zone where people found there were shot first and no questions were asked later.

The wall - I saw a western portion of the wall, where I learned that the East had built the wall a foot or so within their territory so as not to instigate war by infringing on the West. Therefore, in West Berlin one could graffiti the wall with a police officer nearby and there were no consequences. The East didn't care what was painted on the side facing the West and the West had no jurisdiction on that one foot between the wall and West Berlin.

Stories of escape - The guide shared several of his favorite stories of escapes from East Berlin. I particularly liked the following: A man in West Berlin had a girlfriend in East Berlin. To get her out he searched for three years for someone in the West who looked like his girlfriend. He wooed the look alike and brought her to East Berlin for a fancy dinner. (It was possible to get into East Berlin for the Westerners, just not vice-versa.) When the look alike went to the restroom, the man steals her passport and picks up his girlfriend and they cruise over the border leaving Look Alike to convince the authorities of what had happened. It took her six weeks to get back.

Dirt parking lot - We stopped in a dirt parking lot surrounded by apartment buildings just a few blocks from Checkpoint Charlie. Our guide explained how the wall came down due to a mistake made by the press secretary for the East, who notified the public that travelers visas were going to be made available and when asked about when this would happen he said immediately. He had no idea when they were going to be made available and slipped up. The border was soon flooded with people trying to get across and the few soldiers to the thousands of desperate East Berliners were unable to stop them. As we soaked in this story, I should have been wondering why the guide was telling us this information in a dirt lot. It didn't occur to me at the time that this was odd. It turns out we were standing on the sight of Hitler's bunker. I have to say it was a chilling bit of information. On this trip I have stood on several famous spots where Hitler had given a speech or built a concentration camp, but the dirt lot immediately gave me the creeps. Until recently there was no reason to suspect that this spot was Hitler's bunker, but the government decided to put a sign up explaining the spot. This was likely done because the tours brought tourists through anyway.

Prohibitions - I also learned that there are several laws in Germany concerning Nazi articles and imitations. It is illigal to possess a copy of Mien Kampf unless you are authorized because your profession regitimizes the need for the book. A history teacher could have a copy, but a plumber could not. Swastikas are forbidden and until recently so was anti-nazi paraphernalia. The Nazi salute is also illegal. Despite all this and the work the German government has done to memorialize the dead and proceed towards a brighter future there are many Germans who feel a weight of guilt. You wouldn't want to ask someone what their grandfather was doing between the years 1939 and 1945.

Book Burning Square - I was very impressed with the memorial at the square where the Nazi's burned 20,000 books in one night. Under the square are empty white bookshelves, enough for 20,000 books. You can see the shelves through glass over the memorial. Across the street at the University where Einstein, Marx and Hegel all studied, there is a booksale 365 days a year. They sell copies of books that were burned.

Reichstag - The German parliament building is interesting because over where parliament meets is a glass ceiling and people are allowed on the roof. The idea is that never again will the government be able to work in secrecy.

Memorial to the Jews killed in WWII - This memorial impressed me most. The architect left the interpretation quite ambiguous, but did say he wanted it to resemble the Jewish cemetary in Prague. I just saw that cemetary and can say there is a resemblence. Large grey blocks some upright, some leaning, cover an area the size of three football fields. The ground is not level, but rolls up and down like hills. The blocks get taller and taller as you enter the memorial. I like the way our guide interpreted it. He said that anti-semitism starts as a small remark or feeling like the short blocks around the outer edge, but over time it gets deeper until a society is lost in the midst of it. The memorial is controversial for two important reasons. The first, it is a memorial to the Jews. Many other groups were systematically exterminated during the holocaust. The German government has promised memorials to them as well. The second, the paint on the blocks is anti-graffiti. This is a good thing in a city that is covered in spray paint as high as a tall person can reach. However, the paint was bought from the same company that once sold the Nazis the gas that was used in the concentration camps. First they profitted from killing the Jews, then they profitted from memorializing them. Controversial indeed.


There was much more but this has been a long blog entry. I hope if you made it this far that some of the impressions I had today came through clearly, spelling mistakes and all. :)

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Berlin - 19 years later

It hit me as I was walking to dinner that I was on ground I could not have set foot on less than 20 years ago. I am in Berlin and staying on the Eastern side of the city. Major events have occured in several of the locations I have already been on this trip and some of them within my lifetime. There is a disctinct difference about being in Berlin. The first major world event I have any recollection of, albiet vague, is when the wall came down in 1989. I was six.

Tomorrow I will tour the city, see the wall, Checkpoint Charlie, the Brandeburg Gate, Reichstag, Hitlers former bunker (which I hear is now covered with a parking lot) and more.

I've taken in a lot over the last 39 days and honestly find it difficult to take in much more. I feel saturated with information, images, and experiences. Museums are nearly lost on me at this point. Fortunately, Berlin has a lot of structures to see and some museums that I will enjoy, but none of the museums are must sees for me.

I find it comforting that a city with so much terrible history has become a thriving place of commerce, government, and of course, tourism. As any big city does, I am sure it has problems, but a place like this gives me hope for other cities and countries in turmoil around the world.

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Stealing from Prague Metro

That's right, I am a criminal in the eyes of the Prague Metro. They just don't know about my crime.

Today I was going to visit the Jewish quarter, but to the shame of my ancestors I was unaware that today is a Jewish holiday and everything was closed. Instead I took the metro out to a far less tourist populated spot called Vysehrad. The metro in new towns is always intimidating because I never know what type of ticket to buy, but fortunately there were English directions. I bought my ticket and enjoyed the morning at Vysehrad.

After eating goulash soup and bread for lunch (people on Adkins would not do well in Prague), I went to the metro stop. Unfortunately there were no ticket stands! I hadn't thought ahead to buy my return ticket. In Hungary I saw this all the time at less busy stations and wondered what the controllers did with people who had no ticket and no way of buying one. I decided to risk it, I'd noticed no controllers on my way out to Vysehrad.

The metro stopped at the station I planned to transfer at, but I decided (out of terrible guilt) that I could walk the rest of the way back to my hostel. I went to exit the metro station and there were controllers checking tickets as people left!!! So I now write to you from a Prague prison. haha, just joking. I sidestepped the controllers by going over to a map on the wall and when I saw in the reflection that they were preoccupied I made my escape. In other countries, I've heard the fine can be really steep (see blog on Bern, Switzerland) and I know that controllers are not always willing to listen.

I don't think the Prague Metro is going to miss the 18 Czech Crowns ($1 US).

Monday, June 9, 2008

Prague Day two

My theory on people who get into the hostel room late and make a bunch of noise because they are three sheets to the wind really have not recourse to complain when I wake up at seven in the morning to start my day of sight seeing. So far I have done well with that theory and keep my ear plugs snuggly in place until I wake up and set about getting ready for the day.

Today I awoke nice and early to get some pictures of Charles Bridge and some buildings before the tourists crowded around. I then made my way to Prague Castle where one of the most beautiful churches of this trip waited for me. That says a lot after visiting so many at this point of the journey. St. Vitus' Cathedral (the patron St. of Prague or Czech, I can't remember) is stunning. The stained glass windows were done by several different artists and therefore are very different from one another.

After touring the castle grounds, which were not too impressive after the cathedral, I headed to the Little Quarter of Prague and found the Church of St. Mary the Victorious. Inside there is a small statue of Jesus as a child, they call it the Infant Jesus. There are actually signs for you to donate money to Infant Jesus. There is a special prayer too written in several languages to Infant Jesus. I guess I have a hard time subscribing to a theology of Infant Jesus.

Next I went back to my hostel for a nap. Once I woke up I headed out for dinner, Beer Goulash! Yum! Then I went to the Museum of Communism, which told the story of the Czech struggle against the Soviets. It was really impressive with many artifacts set up like an actual room would have been instead of in cases like most museums. There was a video with footage of protestors on Wenceslas square and other squares around Prague. I then, naturaly, found my way to Wenceslass square and took in the fact that revolutions took place there. Violent activity and non-violent alike. What is known as the Velvet Revolution started there and memorials to two men who drew attention to the problems of communism exist on the square.

It was an exceptional day of learning for me and tomorrow looks to be the same as I will travel around the Jewish quarter of town.

For now, I'm off to do laundry.

Sunday, June 8, 2008

Prague

After a grueling day in Salzburg, I woke up early ready to head off to Prague. I had heard great things about this town and feared that it may not live up to expectations. Once I arrived and threw my bag in the locker at the hostel, I headed into the main Old Town. It is AWESOME here. Prague must be one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. I am sad that I have only planned three nights here because I think it could make for a great two week stay. But I really am not up for two weeks more away from home.

I walked through the Old Town square and bought a garnet for myself (my birthstone and a very popular and natural stone here.) I got the super cheap version and took pictures of the nice expensive kind. I wandered down to the river and Charles Bridge, which is the first bridge on this trip that didn't disapoint. The Ponte Vechio in Florence and the Rialto in Venice were too tourist driven. Charles Bridge has its salesmen, but it isn't overrun. I took a hike up to the top of a tower at one end of the bridge and got some great shots of this amazing place. I was taken aback by how pretty this place is.

Once I was done with the view, I wandered across the bridge and found a place to grab some food. I had a Budweiser with dinner, but it was the legit beer not the US copy. :)

By this time it was getting towards sunset and I went back up the tower to see if the sunset would provide better pics.No luck. INstead I ended up watching the German v. Poland football match in the Old Town square on a gigantic screen. There were hundreds of people there and I met a few German girls and a Swedish girl who were pretty fun to talk to. The Germans went nuts when they scored and even more nuts when the game ended 2 to 0. What will this be like in Berlin? Yikes!

This computer has sticky keys and many hostel hostelers await my departure. One more week to go and Prague has given me a better attitude and rejuvenation for this traveling gig.

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Tired and traveling

I hate to complain, but I am exhausted from traveling. My patience for crowds is running thin and I happen to be in one of the host countries for the European Cup (football\soccer). I did the Sound of Music sights and for the most part haven't done a lot else here. Last night I went to a giant beer house and garden. It can seat something like 3,000 people. You pick up your own mug and bring it to the bar. You have your choice between half liter or a full liter mug. (I took the half.)

Today I went to the roof of Hotel Stein and had a glass of wine while overlooking the river and all the sights on the other side. My plan was to then do a few more toursit things, but when I left the hotel, several shots were fired up on the hill across the river announcing the start of the European cup. So I proceeded to try and find the sights I was after, but with all the people and the areas that were closed off and dubbed ''Fan Zone'' I couldn't get anywhere. So I went back to my littel zimmer (room) and relaxed the rest of the afternoon. I think I needed an afternoon off. I had read about needing vacations from your vacation, and now I know how true that is. I can't maintain the level of interest required for sight seeing everyday, all day.

I hope the long train ride to Prague will bolster my enthusiasm. I have only heard great things about Prague and look forward to seeing the place for myself. Then I'll go to Berlin and then London. Only a week and a half left on this adventure.

Friday, June 6, 2008

A quick update

1. Internet in Salzburg is expensive
2. I am embarking on a tour of Sound of Music sights today and if the kitsch doesn't kill me, I'll blog all about it.
3. Last night I saw a concert of Mozart and Strauss at Schonburgg Palace where Mozart first performed. Pretty cool.
4. During the concert I became friends with a guy from Poland who was sitting in back to make sure none of his group left or fell asleep during the concert. :)
5. While sipping coffee in a major Vienna square, someone declared that I looked very French because I was so chic. WHAT? I don't think I have ever been called chic in my life. PS - He was Italian.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

A day in Vienna

When the news broke that Bill Clinton had had an affair with Monica Lewinski, I was working at Mission Springs, a camp in the Santa Cruz mountains. When Princess Dianna was killed in a car crash, I was also at Mission Springs. Being at camp and secluded from 'the real world', meant that I found out a few days after the news became a world wide cover story. This time I'm not at camp, I'm in Vienna and only now have discovered that Clinton is 'suspending' her campaign. I think most Austrians knew before I did. I can't read the German headlines. It isn't the biggest event to find out about a few days after the fact, but it makes me feel very out of touch. And I'm not saying that is a bad thing.

Yesterday I toured the Hapsburg Imperial Apartments, checked out their massive silver collection and the Sisi museum. I also went to the Albertina museum, which houses the work of several impressionists. There was a great descprition on the wall concerning abstract expressionism, '' A work of art is determined by artistic inetention, improvisation, and accident.'' I identify with that a lot in my painting. More on the accident end I think though. :}

After the Albertina, I checked out St. Stephen's Cathedral. Vespers were going on so no one was allowed in the nave, but it was rather beautiful watching people worship in the cathedral. Not something you get to experience when all the tourists are gawking away. I found a small chapel to the side of the church that was open for prayer only. After pushing my way through two sets of massive sound proof double doors, I found about fifteen people on their knees in prayer. What a cool thing! People praying, in a church! I know this shouldn't surprise me, but it was of great relief after seeing so many churches overrun with tourists, to find one that preserved it's sacred character. I knelt in prayer thanking God that he does indeed prevent the sacred from being completely overrun by the secular.

Next I wandered down to a cafe for some food and then on to Cafe Sacher for what you might guess, a Sacher Torte. Now, let me be clear about this. I paid the 9€ for a coffee and famous piece of cake not for myself. I did this for my sister, who is a pastry chef and is studying culinary arts in Seattle. It was out of love for her and knowing that she would want me to have this experience, that I indulged in one of the best and most well known chocolate in the world. Too bad I don't have a jeweller for a sibling.

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

Travelling thoughts

This trip is hard to describe. When I get back and get the inevitable, 'how was it?' question, I don't know how I will respond.

Some options:

1. It was really fun. - It has been really fun...sometimes. It has also been really challenging and made me wonder if I really want to be traveling anymore. I have met some amazing people and had some great laughs. Seeing beautiful places and artwork and churches qualifies as fun for me too, but there were a lot of ugly places and for every one great piece of art there were a hundred to sift through.

2. It was awesome. - haha, typical Californian answer. It has been awesome but it has also really been rough. Being sick was terrible and one or two cities made me feel unwelcome and written off as a tourist, or worse, an American.

3. It was tough. - for all the above complaints, this might sound like the best answer, but it's not because there have been some incredibly easy and relaxing days.

4. It was educational. - This answer sounds to me like the most boring of them all. Yet it rings most true. I learned about different countries, about both world wars, about churches, cathedrals, and basillicas. I learned that tourism is a tricky endeavor for the places that want the income, but don't want to sell out the special character of their town. I've learned to talk to people who don't speak English, to rely on the help of strangers to find my destination, to embrace the fact that I don't always get things right and often walk north when the map really says I should be going south. After this last week, I have stood in the same synagogue where Eichmann and Mengele seperated Jews for extermination or for labor. I have stood in the spot of a former concentration camp in Vienna and in a square that was leveled by the allies in WWII. And I still have two weeks left - the average American vacation - which will include Salzburg, Prague, Berlin, and London.

As odd as it sounds to me, I think educational is the best word to describe this trip. I'm pretty sure it has changed my life. Can't speak too soon though.

Sunday, June 1, 2008

From Bath to Opera

Today was a whirlwind. I was going to check e-mail and go straight to bed, but the front desk is giving me free internet! A luxury!

I started out at the city pool and bath. There were several pools all varrying in temperatures. I spent some time in the 35C pool, but a couple older people kept trying to tell me to go somewhere else. I never figured out why. I think they thought the water was too warm for someone young. I don't know. I went to the colder pool and then got my camera and wandered up to the balcony overlooking the whole place to snap some pictures. I didn't want to take pictures at pool level and look like some weirdo.

Unfortunately, the balcony ended up being the tanning area. Not so bad, you might think. Well it was a ladies only tanning area so when I opened the door I was ready for anything and I got an eye full of a lot of Hungarian skin. One woman seemed concerned when she spotted my camera (remember I wanted to avoid looking like a weirdo) so I quickly turned towards the pool area, took my pictures and left. Her concern was really unwarrented since the sight of all those naked Hungarian women left a permanent picture on my brain.

After the bath I stopped for some horse racing at a festival in the park. Then I went to the largest synagogue in Europe and took a tour. It was more like a lecture in the synagogue thought. Besides the sweeping historical critiques the guide made, it was pretty good information. The memorial outside to the Hungarian Jews killed in a nine month span when Germany deported and killed a few hundred thousand Jews was really impressive. It is a weeping willow with names of the dead on its leaves.

I took a quick sweep through the national museum and then took a nap before heading to my very first Opera. Thanks to a couple of American girls who had printed out the translation I gathered what the story was about. At first I wanted to try and see if I could sort it out, but found that my interpretation became very colored by my theological training. For instance, the first act takes place on a green stage and the ensemble is dressed in green and there are twigs all over. It gave me the impression of a tree. Then there was one character dressed in red and one in white and the way they interacted with another character made me think there was a good/evil struggle. And then I thought it was like the Garden of Eden. I realized this was totally off when several other players entered the scene, but thought it was pretty funny how I was interpreting the Opera. Turns out I wasn't the only one. I overheard some other people talking about how they thought it was symbolizing red and white blood cells and photosynthesis. Must have been science types.

I'm off to bed and hope for a slower day tomorrow. I'll see parliament and a basillica, but the rest of the day will be open for whatever. Then I'll be off to Vienna.

----

Also, if you find a lot of spelling and grammer mistakes in my writing, I'm sorry. I can't get the spell check to work on this blog and really don't have the energy or time to do edits most nights. I'm sure you won't hold it against me.

Saturday, May 31, 2008

Dancing Hungarians

Today was a busy day of seeing the sights of Budapest. I'll skip all that though and head straight for the best part of my day. I went to the city park and had a beer while watching a bunch of locals dance the night away. I ended up sitting next to a woman who grew up in Hungary and she started talking to me. Her mother soon met her and then an 80 year old woman with burgundy and white striped hair joined us. She was wearing a bright multi colored tee-shirt. This woman had a fun personality. I don't think she liked me too much at first because she wanted us only to speak Hungarian. However, she warmed up over time and eventually we went out on the dance floor together and had a great time dancing to a couple songs alongside a 60 year old man who's version of dancing resembled a chicken attempting flight. So there I was in Budapest dancing with an 80 year old lady who couldn't speak English (and in case you are wondering, I can't speak Hungarian), it was a classic moment. By the end of the night she wanted to take a picture with me and have me send it to her.

My original English speaking friend was there for all of this and she and her mother offered to show me Budapest at night. We drove past some of the sights and over the river. The mother kept pointing to one side of the river saying Pest and then pointing to the other side saying Buda. She kept clarifying that one was Pest, the other Buda until she confused herself and pointed at Buda and said Pest then pointed at Pest and said Buda. :)

I knew this before starting this journey, but it really is the people who make a place special.

Friday, May 30, 2008

A first

Leaving Bled was tough. Not just because I had to wake up at five am to do it, but because it is a truly beautiful, restful place. Yesterday I had some strength back and I walked around the lake and to a gorge that is just magnificent. I decided that if I ever have a job that allows me a sabbatical, Bled is on the short list of places I'd like to spend it.

There was a lot I didn't get to do in Bled but I have more of Europe I want to see in the second half of this marathon journey. So today I took a nine hour train from Ljubljana, Slovenia to Budapest, Hungary. That was after a one hour bus ride from Bled to Ljubljana. I slept most of the way except for when this oversized Ukrainian woman started playing music from her phone AND she sung along. That goes on the list of things I just don't experience back home.

I arrived in Budapest around four in the afternoon and with surprising speed got a map, a Budapest card (covers museum entries and metro fares), and got the largest denomination of money out of the bank ever. Going from one currency to the next and back again is taxing on my brain! I don't yet have the Forint sorted out. When you see that your drink costs 800 anything, it gives you pause.

The exciting thing about being in Hungary is that it is the first country of my ancestry I have ever visited. While I don't feel any great affinity for Hungary, I am excited to learn more about this country in a way I haven't been about the others.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

God bless the Swedes and antibiotics

I went to the doctor in Bled, Slovenia this morning and insisted on getting some antibiotics for whatever bug I caught in Italy. He asked me if antibiotics are prescribed much in the US. I had to laugh and said, "yes, all the time". I know there is controversy over prescribing antibiotics too often, but I am grateful to have some so I can get back on my feet and enjoy this trip again.

There is a Swede staying at this hostel here and he has taken on the roll of house mom, arranging travel for a couple needing to get to Austria and walking a sick American girl to the pharmacy/hospital. Stewart jokes that he is paid by the US government to look out for Americans in Slovenia, but I think he's a God-send.

An interesting observation about my trip to the hospital today. No sign in sheet, no forms, no insurance issues and I got in and out of there in less than 45 minutes. I've spent hours waiting for a doctor at hospitals in the US while holding a sprained wrist or suffering from mono. I was pleasantly surprised by the whole process.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Sick still

Nothing interesting to report. I'm still sick and have decided to seek medical help in the morning. It seems as though I caught a bug in Florence or Venice.
More to come once I feel better or get bored...

Monday, May 26, 2008

Discouraged BUT not in Italy!

I am so relieved to be out of Italy. I am in Ljubljana, Slovania. It is beautiful country here. Tomorrow I head up to the Alps for some relaxing and fresh air.

I still feel pretty discouraged after two wretched days in Italy. My clothes won't get washed until tomorrow and just the idea of what they smell like makes me gag a little. I also didn't eat anything but bread and water for the last 48 hours until this evening when I forced myself to eat some meat. I think the smell just got stuck in my nose and has ruined my taste too.

Plus I keep finding bug bites every ten minutes or so. Must stop at the pharmacy to get some repellent.

The good news is that I am no longer in Italy with its macho men and fashionista women. (The men were pretty good fashionistas too though.) Every person I've stopped to ask for help here speak excellent English. I am very grateful for that.

I find myself discouraged on day 24 and keep coming up with escape plans to leave Europe. Praying for strength and health.

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Day 22

One of my good friends has linked her blog to mine and given my blog the title, Julia vs. Europe. Yesterday, Europe got the best of me. I arrived in Venice and felt gross from the beginning. The place stinks. It smells so bad I haven't been able to eat much and I just want to hide from all the tourists.

At first I thought I was the one stinking. I washed all my clothes only to discover they now all stink of Venice water. I was going to stay three nights here, but I've decided to get out and go to Slovenia a day earlier than I had planned.

When I tried to get back to my hostel early evening yesterday I got misinformation on the water busses and tried to walk, but got very turned around and lost. I was in tears trying to find my hostel in this wretched stench.

For anyone who has been jealous of my travels in Europe, rest well tonight knowing that your sheets don't stink of Venice.

Julia 21, Europe 1

Friday, May 23, 2008

Florence - The David

There are many times when people feel let down by seeing something they have always heard about and really want to see. For instance, on the way to Florence I stopped in Pisa but was told not to bother because the leaning tower isn't that great. With very low expectations I went anyway and loved it!

Today I went to the Academia and saw Michalangelo's David. I really is as impressive in person as its reputation demands it to be. What an impressive sculpture! I don't even know that much about sculpture and I found myself spending a long time in awe of such an excellent work. It just seems so real.

I also enjoyed Fro Angelico's Frescos in St. Mark's today. The cloisters each have a fresco and some of them really evoke a call to prayer. Some felt like there was much to meditate on and others seemed as though the simplicity of the work was a call to simple meditation.

My feet are aching from walking all over Europe. I'm just under half way through this trip and I wonder how I'll do as the weeks stretch on. Traveling is great, but tiring work.

Thanks for reading! It is fun for me to share with family and friends the experiences I'm having in Europe. I love when you leave comments too... :)

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Florence - a long day

I've spent the past 12 hours roaming Florence and its many museums, churches, and squares. I spent over €40 on admission tickets today. I'll leave it up to you to figure out the conversion. I'd rather not think about that right now.

Some stuff I really liked:
The hike and view of Florence from Brunelleschi's Dome on top of Santa Maria del Fiore.

Mercury by Giambologna in The Bargello.

The tombs of famous Florentines at Santa Croce. Michelangelo, Dante, Galileo, Machiavelli. And Cimabue's Crucifixion. I was told to see this and it turned out to be really impressive.

The Uffizi. Too much to name.

Museo dell'Opera del Duomo - The panels from the Baptistry East doors by Lorenzo Ghiberti.

At the end of a long day I stopped at a small chapel and listened to the organist play. It was refreshing. Then I went for a wonderful Italian dinner. I think if I had to choose one type of food to live on for the rest of my life, it would be Italian.




Stuff I didn't like:
All the graffiti on the stairs and outter dome at Santa Maria del Fiore. I didn't come to Florence, pay €6, and hike 463 stairs, to find out that Mike loves Jenny and that Robert was there in 2005. Funny story: Almost as soon as I arrived at the top of the dome, I saw some punk about to add his mark to the Duomo. Without much thought I sternly said "hey, hey, this is a church" while shaking my head. He stopped, but probably proceeded once I was gone. It takes a certain disrespect to write on such a building.

David by Donatello in The Bargello was being cleaned today. It was being done in the room he normally stands in. However, all I got to see was his back side. I'll just have to come back to Florence I guess.

I rushed Santa Croce in an effort to make my appointment at the Uffizi.

Too much to see at the Uffizi.

San Lorenzo was cool, but one ticket didn't cover the whole building. It was several different ticket and many Euros to see the whole place. I think this is because the state owns some of the building and the church the other. I often found myself frustrated with the touristification of churches. One woman actually said to me when I asked about getting to another part of the church, "That is the religious part." I thought, "what part of the church is supposed to be the non-religious part?"

Another long day tomorrow, but I hope to be more laid back and just see what I can rather than force myself into a laborious tour of Florence. I know now that I can't see it all on this trip, so I'd rather enjoy what can be seen.

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Flirting in Florence

I am now in Florence after a two day stint in the beautiful, but unfortunately rainy, Cinque Terre. A must see for anyone travelling in Italy, but hope for better weather than I had. The sun was nice and bright this morning as I was packing my bag to go.

I spent the time in Cinque Terre with another woman traveling alone and we had a great time telling stories, eating great food and getting to know some of the tourists and locals. Cheryl, you're a legend!

Cheryl and I were hit on by a seventy something Italian man while we ate dinner at his restaurant. He was incredibly cute. Chezere (no idea if that is correct spelling) wanted to know if we were single so that we could meet his nephew. Hilarious. Cheryl said she was taken and when I said I was single, Chezere shook my hand and grinned.

We also met Oliver the artist who grew up in Croatia but now lives in Berlin, except for the four months out of the year when he comes and paints Cinque Terre and makes enough money on the trails selling his work to live on all year. What a life!

Once I made it to Florence, I became overwhelemed with all there is to see here after lazy days in Cinque Terre. And by lazy I mean hiking in the humidity and rain. So I sat to plan tomorrow in Piazza Santa Croce. An Italian man about forty years old sat down and started speaking in Italian. I asked him in Italian if he spoke English and then he suggested French. (We all know what trouble that could cause.) He proceeded to tell me I was beautiful and pretty. Then he asked if I was on a tour of Florence.

The answer being, no, I'm traveling alone, didn't seem right. So I told him I was meeting my husband for dinner and we were travelling together. He somehow had to be somewhere really fast at that moment. He seemed to have all the time in the world before, I wonder what changed his mind.

I had an amazing dinner with two new friends from the Bay Area. Steve and his daughter Mary who is studying theology and philosophy for her undergrad. Somehow we found a lot to talk about! :)

Time for bed and a crazed day of sight seeing tomorrow.

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Train Troubles

Greetings from Cinque Terre, Italy.

Getting here was not an easy task today. I came from Switzerland, over the Alps by bus and then to Milan by train. Three more trains brought me to my final destination where I nearly couldn't find a room. It was the first train from Bellinzona, Switzerland to Milan, Italy that caused the most trouble.

I took care to make the required reservation and scouted the train for my assigned seat. When I arrived at car 314, seat 101, there was an old man sitting in 102 and his stuff was in my seat. I gestured towards the seat indicating that it was my seat thinking he would kindly move his stuff. Instead I got a slew of French thrown at me by him and then his wife, who was sitting across from him. I held up my hands as if to say, "I have no idea what you nutters are talking about."

What in the world? Did I have the wrong seat? Did I make another Euro mistake?

I quickly left the car and poked my head outside and asked the ticket man if he spoke English. He did and I told him the problem. He got on the train and took my reservation card and began discussing the situation with the couple. I just stood there not knowing what was happening and the whole train car was watching whatever it was that was unfolding.

It soon became clear to me that I had the right seat because Mr. and Mrs. Grumpy Pants were getting more and more angry at the train guy. I leaned over and asked a woman if she knew what they were saying. She told me that there was no reservation posted on the seat so they were not going to give it to me. (Usually reserved seats have a sign that they are reserved and for the segment of the trip that they will remain reserved.)

The whole mess ended with me sitting next to the woman who explained the situation and the couple continually muttering throughout the two hour journey their thoughts on "reservatione". It was rediculous. At one point a man a couple rows back began to scold the old couple. I only knew this because he was speaking with much force towards them and the two finally shut up and let me get my stuff organized on the rack above them. Once the man interfered for me I started to tear up just before taking my seat. The whole thing was overwhelming and extremely petty.

An hour later the couple were complaining about the situation and the woman who helped me get a seat told me that they had said there reserved seat numbers and they were actually in the WRONG SEATS. They had taken her seat to begin with. What a pair! It's a good thing I couldn't mouth off back to them because I'm pretty sure I could have come up with some zingers after all that.

Saturday, May 17, 2008

More misadventures for Julia in Europe

I arrived in Bern, Switzerland yesterday and met up with the brother of a girl I know from Vancouver. His name is Joel and his roommates are Simon and Timon. (They are all good fun.) The plan for today was to go river rafting in the Alps with their volleyball club. This meant that last night we had to travel to Igis where they all are from.

These three boys like to cut things close. I`ve run to catch the bus or train more times in the last 24 hours than ever in my entire life.

Before we left for Igis, Joel showed me around Bern. It started to rain a little, but we were alright with walking home. Then it rained harder. Then it became a full out thunderstorm. I had to tuck my camera and purse under my jacket. By the time we got back Simon and Timon had made dinner. However, we had to catch the tram to the train station so we quickly got all our stuff together and headed out.

This was no easy tram to catch. Joel and I ran while Timon and Simon rode their bikes. We literally ran alongside the tram for three or four blocks. Once it stopped, I jumped on only to have the doors shut behind me leaving Simon and Timon outside and me never paying for my ticket. We tried to open the doors, but to no avail.

I sat down while Joel had a lengthy conversation in Swiss-German with the ticket taker man. (No one seems to know what his actual title is.) Meanwhile the tram started moving and Simon and Timon had to follow us full speed on their bikes and in the pouring rain. I had no idea what Joel and the ticket man were discussing until we got to the next stop. The doors opened and Timon grabbed a ticket out of his mouth that he had been holding the whole ride and handed it to Joel who handed it to the ticket man. The ticket man looked at it, made a tear in it, handed the ticket to me and walked away.

We all eventually met up at the train station where we again ran to make the train to Zurich and on to Bern.

Now what was all the fuss about? It turns out that in the excitement of running for the tram I had jumped on thinking that we just needed to make it stop and then I could buy a ticket. The ticket man had another idea. He wanted to charge Joel and me 86 Swiss Francs (about 80 US) for not having tickets. Joel was able to show that he had a pass allowing him to ride for free. He had to explain that I was from America and had made a mistake, BUT the ticket was on its way. Which is where Timon and Simon saved the day and delivered the ticket saving me 80 bucks!

It`s exhausting making sure you get everything right in another country. It`s much worse when you are out of breath and your shoes are soaked through with water.

Speaking of soaked, I did go rafting today in the Alps and it was excellent. Cold, but excellent.

Tomorrow I go over the Alps into Italy to spend three days on the west coast taking in some sunshine (I hope).

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Switzerland

I arrived in Basel, Switzerland around 17:00. (I`ve gotten really good at thinking in 24 hour time.) After checking in to a hostel, I discovered the wonderful tram system of Basel. It kicks butt over any public transportation system I have seen...ever. The hostels here even give their guests a free pass for the days you are in town. How cool is that? (I`d like to insert an excalmation point here, but can`t find it on the Swiss keyboard.)

The public tram might be where my admiration of this town stops, at least for tonight.

Leering hostelers require this tale to be brief:
I did not eat most of the day and for those who have spent a whole day with me would know that I don`t do well once I am hungry. My hands start to shake and pavement begins to look like a nice snack. After checking in and sorting myself out with the layout of Basel via my map, I headed into the center of town to find some dinner. (And no, I didn`t set it on the ground and `step into` the map like joey on Friends.)

I soon discovered that Switzerland is expensive. I was warned of this, but no one said that expensive meant an Americano at Starbucks that costs me less than 2 dollars US costs 5 Swiss Francs. The dollar and the Swiss Franc are about on par too. I think I paid more money for my taco salad dinner tonight than I have spent on food in any one whole day on this trip.

I must figure out how to survive on pavement for the next couple of days.

The good news is that I am meeting up with a friend of a friend and get to go rafting in Switzerland. Wahoo (exclamation point)

Oh, just found it!

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Some thoughts on Europe and tourism thus far...

I don't expect Europe to be like the US, but there are certain questions and observations I have about tourism and European life...

1. Why do certain people insist on taking pictures of EVERYTHING? Yesterday, a couple (nationality not disclosed) had the wife standing and smiling in front of a memorial to Jews who were slaughtered in the 13th century. Did they know what it was and thought a smile was appropriate? Or did they not know and decide it just made for a good pic?

2. What is with paying for the toilet? I knew that was the case in Europe, but the bathrooms are no cleaner or better looked after than those in the US. And the taxes here are higher so if it is a public restroom, shouldn't the local government pay for it? Can anyone educate me on this one?

3. I find it interesting that some towns have all the signage in the local language, UNLESS something is forbidden. They make sure to put it in English too. No one wants the English speaking tourists walking on the lawn or not paying for the toilet. :)

4. And did someone curse that skirt I bought in Brussels? I wore it the other day and let's just say it turned out to be windy.

5. I've seen some great picture signs here. Like the one with a man in a top hat walking across the street indicating a crosswalk. Or the one with a woman holding the hand of a child to indicate there are pedestrains present. Too bad most tourists don't know how to read pictures and cross the street where they shouldn't or turn the wrong way down a one way street.

6. Germans like their smokes and there must not be a legal age to buy cigarettes because every other corner has a cigarette vending machine. Tobacco companies must love it here.

I apologize if this post comes off arrogant or picky, that is not my intent. (I'm extra sensitive while travelling in an effort to not come off as an egocentric American.) These are just some things I find humorous and/or CRAZY about Europe and tourists. I've made plenty of my own mishaps (see post on Brussels - skirt incident). :)

Monday, May 12, 2008

Rhine time

Not much new here on the Rhine. Same ol' laying around in the sun by the river or watching the castles go by while taking it all in from a boat.Tomorrow I leave the Romantic Rhine and head for the Romantic Road. I'll be staying in Rothenburg, which is supposed to be a gag-me-it's-so-cute medeival looking town.

I'm hopeful that there will be more people to talk to there. St. Goar has lacked much interaction with the locals. I can see why though. The town has a population of 1,000 and it doubles or triples when the tourists show up during the day. It is pretty insane to go to bed in a sleepy town on the Rhine and then wake up to tourist central. I get the sense that the locals like the business, but aren't looking to make new friends with their customers. Perhaps Rothenburg will provide some new friends.

Until next time, Auf Wiedersehen!

Saturday, May 10, 2008

On to Germany

Yesterday I left Belgium and spent my first Eurail pass day heading for St. Goar, Germany.

First, I had to stop and see the Dom Cathedral in Cologne. Shortly after boarding the train to Cologne (the first leg at least), I was greeted by a large, droopy eyed Belgian man who had to stamp my ticket. He noticed that I am from California and began speaking to me in English and wanted to talk all about America. I put my postcards aside and learned all about his farm equipment import and export business. He travels to the US to do business once a year. And oh my did he have an opinion for everthing and everyone American.

After chatting for awhile, he sat down opposite me and kept talking. As the trip progressed he made himself more and more comfortable. Eventually he had his legs stretched out across the two seats across from me. Every couple of kilometers he would share that he thought something about America was CRAZY. Our borders are CRAZY. Our politics are CRAZY. Our cost of living is CRAZY. The definition of CRAZY seemed to go back and forth between good and bad. Guess who I think is CRAZY!

We talked for the whole trip! At least one hour maybe more. I love meeting people while travelling, even if they think America is CRAZY. In his defense he did call Europe CRAZY a couple times. Both the good and bad version. Everyone further on in the train must have been wondering why no one was coming through to stamp tickets.

Once I got to Cologne I stepped out of the train station to discover the most massive cathedral. It towers over the whole city. What a great place!

Now I am in St. Goar on the Rhine. I spent today riding a bike 14 kilometers down along the river and 14 kilometers back up. I´m sunburned and tired. A medieval castle awaits me tomorrow.

Before my time runs out on this pay per minute computer, one last story.
When I went to rent my bike today, I met a great German gentleman who spoke excellent English (a joy for me). I got on the bike to see if the seat was at the right level. It was perfect, BUT when I went to swing my leg around the back to get off the bike, I promptly hit the basket in the back and knocked the bike and myself over. A confessed love in Brussels, a bike 'crash' in St. Goar...I don't want to know what the next town has in store for me. We'll find out!

Brussels recap

Brussels turned out to be alright after my American born, Parisian raissed, Brussels local, waiter introduced me to a proper Trapist beer. (I thought of all my friends studying theology and becoming brew masters as I drank the monk specialty.) Thanks Anton for saving Brussels with a beer!

Meeting a new friend in a strange land reminded me that this trip will have its lonely moments, but there are people to meet along the way.

The Blog is back

Sorry to those who tried to access my blog over the last couple days. Blogger thought I might be a spammer. We are back now.

Thursday, May 8, 2008

I'm in Europe

I left for my seven week tour of Europe on May 2 and arrived on May 3 in Dublin. I'm starting this new blog because I've decided I need more contact with people. Ireland provided many new friends, I'm not so sure the continent will be the same.

All that to say,welcome to my new blog! My art blog still exists, this is seperate for my trip.

I arrived in Brussels yesterday and found that it is a pretty blah town. I can see why it isn't at the top of most must see lists. The sidewalks are busted up, there is graffiti everywhere and few people are eager to help a wandering tourist. I was going to go to Bruges today to see what else Belgium has to offer, but ended up staying Brussels as I began to find better parts of the city.

I'm still not impressed with Brussels. (I'm not a big enough beer drinker for this town.) The whole place seems pretty unimpressed with itself as well. No one seems all that proud to be from here. Maybe that is why the cities symbol is a boy peeing into a large bowl. That could also explain why there is a church that has a urinal on the outside wall. Yuck!

One final story before I surrender the computer to the eager hostelers waiting for me to leave.

Today I stopped in a shop and tried on a skirt. I had already spoken a little to the shop owner who spoke a little English and I speak even less French. He asked if I liked the skirt and if it fit while I was trying it on. I said "I like it" in French. Well, actually, I didn't. I meant to say, "I like it" but instead I said "Je t'aime." Which means I like you. Sometime while he was muttering "no, no, no" I realized my mistake. Why oh why didn't I pay better attention in French class. That was the first moment on this trip I really wished someone was with me. Laughing at yourself is so much better with someone else laughing with you.

To Germany tomorrow.